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velocity of propagation of long gravity wave on a channel

См. также в других словарях:

  • Cnoidal wave — US Army bombers flying over near periodic swell in shallow water, close to the Panama coast (1933). The sharp crests and very flat troughs are characteristic for cnoidal waves. In fluid dynamics, a cnoidal wave is a nonlinear and exact periodic… …   Wikipedia

  • SOFAR channel — The SOFAR channel (short for Sound Frequency and Ranging channel), or deep sound channel (DSC),[1] is a horizontal layer of water in the ocean at which depth the speed of sound is minimal. The SOFAR channel acts as a waveguide for sound, and low… …   Wikipedia

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  • Airy wave theory — In fluid dynamics, Airy wave theory (often referred to as linear wave theory) gives a linearised description of the propagation of gravity waves on the surface of a homogeneous fluid layer. The theory assumes that the fluid layer has a uniform… …   Wikipedia

  • Dispersion (water waves) — This article is about dispersion of waves on a water surface. For other forms of dispersion, see Dispersion (disambiguation). In fluid dynamics, dispersion of water waves generally refers to frequency dispersion, which means that waves of… …   Wikipedia

  • fluid mechanics — an applied science dealing with the basic principles of gaseous and liquid matter. Cf. fluid dynamics. [1940 45] * * * Study of the effects of forces and energy on liquids and gases. One branch of the field, hydrostatics, deals with fluids at… …   Universalium

  • Tide — This article is about tides in the Earth s oceans. For other uses, see Tide (disambiguation). Tidal redirects here. For other uses, see Tidal (disambiguation). High Tide redirects here. For other uses, see High Tide (disambiguation) …   Wikipedia

  • Coriolis effect — For the psychophysical perception effect, see Coriolis effect (perception). Classical mechanics Newton s Second Law …   Wikipedia

  • thunderstorm — /thun deuhr stawrm /, n. a transient storm of lightning and thunder, usually with rain and gusty winds, sometimes with hail or snow, produced by cumulonimbus clouds. Also called electrical storm. [1645 55; THUNDER + STORM] * * * Violent, short… …   Universalium

  • Swell (ocean) — Ocean swell redirects here. For the thoroughbred racehorse, see Ocean Swell. Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California …   Wikipedia

  • Soliton — In mathematics and physics, a soliton is a self reinforcing solitary wave (a wave packet or pulse) that maintains its shape while it travels at constant speed. Solitons are caused by a cancellation of nonlinear and dispersive effects in the… …   Wikipedia

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